Friday 30th August 2019
Balthazar, Berend and I set off from La Paz with our tour guide Mario on a somewhat sketchy looking van after a somewhat confusing morning with all the gear. After having read so many reports of bad tour companies in Bolivia and the associated dangers, we were left somewhat questioning our choice and hoping for improvements. Questions like “Do you want a sleeping bag?” for the dead of winter and a mountain that summits at 6088m and leaving us the car to take care of on the outskirts of La Paz, really didn’t help.
Soon however with a beautiful first view of Huayna Potosi, our guide Mario put some doubts to rest. Arrival at base camp greeted us with a large warm lunch and the separation of extra safety gear. Stuffed full and no longer worrying about the quality of food during the trip, we prepped for a short hike in full ice gear to the nearby glacier. This was our first taste of ice climbing! A brief training session and our 60 year old guide made easy way of the vertical face without ropes! He really was a Super Mario! Setting down ropes for us and ab-sailing down, it was our go. All I can say is that it is one of the most exhilarating experiences I have ever had. Hanging a few meters up with just two ice picks and crampons digging centimetres into the glacier really gets your heart going. The main thing that surprised me was how tiring it was but regardless, we left the ice wall feeling invincible for challenges to come. As we returned to base, other guides continuously greeted Mario; he was respected and famous in the sphere of Bolivian guides, giving us even more confidence!
That afternoon we relaxed in the sunshine to acclimatise to the altitude and played cards with some other groups into the evening. With the promise of a relaxed morning the next day, we prepared for a night in a 20 bed refuge at 4,700m.
Day 2
A late start, a hearty breakfast and a packing session is how our second day on the mountain began. Just as we finished stuffing all the warm equipment into our large packs, lunch was served and half an hour later the team was off. Now with an extra guide, Herman. The task today:
Climb 400m altitude from Base camp to high camp with all the equipment we need to reach the summit.
With our 15kg bags sinking into our shoulders and hips, the guides led us up the rocky landscape, zigzagging up the side of the mountain. A stop to pay the 20bob mountain fee at a checkpoint, and a steep climb later and we reached high camp in an instant. The guides had planned 2 to 3 hours for the walk but we had managed it in 1.5. They were pleased and exuded confidence for the adventure to come. Later they would use this to prank us, saying “you are a fast enough to leave at 5am and get to the top”. We fell for it, and it slightly worried us but we later found out they were trying to fool the girls of the other group to make us look extra impressive! We really started liking these guides. They had a good sense of humour and really were some excellent cooks.
Similarly to the afternoon on day 1, we spent it acclimatising by playing cards, admiring the landscape and sipping on coca tea. Little did we know how tough this night and the following day would be.
Dinner was served early, at 5pm, and as the cold came in, we prepped ourselves for a cold restless night.
Day 3
What you need to know is that sleeping at 5,135m is no easy feat. The air is thin and the cold (in the Andean winter) is like caffeine and your body seems to wake you up naturally every 30 minutes. When the alarm clock rang at 1am, I had had just under 2 hours sleep total, Berend a bit more at about 3 but Balthazar had it really rough, not even getting a full hour.
We quickly put all our layers on, complete with thick down jacket, used the frozen water toilet and harnessed up. Now only one thing was on our mind: sunrise at the summit above 6,088m.
As we exit the refuge, we look across the night sky to the next mountain range and see the most incredible thunder storms. The sky is electrifyingly lit in brief flashes, giving us glimpses of nature’s scary power.
We walked for 30 minutes in full gear and then hit the start of the ice section. Crampons on, ice pick in hand and now tied to each other by rope. The climb continued. Every 10 minutes or so we would take a break. No matter, because as soon as we restarted, our breaths would all be short again. 5,200. 5,300. 5,400. 5,500. 5,600 and we pass Campo Argentino point. Balthazar is beginning to show some signs of nausea from the altitude. We push on into the morning. Passing all other groups on the way. We are now leading the summit attempts that day. 5,700. We pass the ice-climbing point. A deep crevasse with a steep walk where we hoist each other up with ice picks and the ropes. Not as bad as the training but hard at the altitude and time. 5,800. We can see the silhouette of the summit. 5,900. The sky is beginning to light up, but still no sun. We are now on the final stretch. A thin path with a drop off. Balthazar, despite consistently dry heaving and feeling worse for wear is determined to get there. Berend and I can only try and support. Slowly we push on. Step by step. 6,088m. We take our final steps with the sun just peaking over and warming our frozen hands, toes and faces. We made it! Wow!
The three of us speechless. Looking at the mountains and clouds below and trying to warm in an orange glow. Perhaps it is fair to say that two of us enjoyed the time there a bit more but what is important is we all made it. The guides were fantastic in supporting us, looking like it was just a Sunday walk for them. Despite being one of the easiest peaks above 6,000m, the last day was no easy trip.
Desperate to see us all suffer a bit less, we powered down the mountain back to high camp. Our tiredness was killing us and now joined by headaches from the descent. We had made it but we weren’t as strong as we had been the days before. We welcomed the return to La Paz.
I would highly recommend this adventure for anyone with time in La Paz. It’s not often you get to experience altitude like that.
To the boys and the guides, thank you for the unforgettable memories!
